Question

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Briefly explain about the story of IKAT!!!

Answer 1

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The Story Of Ikat: In Under 60 Seconds. Believed by some to have originated in either India or Indonesia, the ancient art of Ikat dyeing and weaving was once used to symbolize wealth and prestige. ...Ikat is not just a print or pattern, it is a dyeing technique

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Answer 2





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Uzbek ikats displayed at the David Collection in Denmark. Photo by Pernille Klemp.

The country’s double landlocked position and its mountainous terrain helped preserve the art of ikat after the demise of the Silk Road. At the turn of the 20th century, Uzbek ikat went through a brief change with the incorporation into the Soviet Union when corporative, mass production replaced craftsmen’s exclusive small-scale production. While ikat became accessible to the public, the designs were simplified and synthetic replaced natural dyes. A few families managed to secretly safeguard the old, elaborated techniques and revived production after the country’s independence. One of such families was discovered by Bermingham & Co during their fateful visit to Uzbekistan.

The husband-and-wife duo behind Bermingham & Co stumbled upon ikats when a man walked into their antique shop on the Upper East Side trying to sell them his stock of Uzbek ikats. They immediately fell in love with the fabrics and bought everything the man had. Karine Bermingham, a French-trained upholsterer, started putting ikats on vintage furniture and it turned clients’ heads. They decided to invest and give the man a sum of money to go to Uzbekistan and buy ikats for their store. In a twist of fate, he disappeared with the investment. In another twist of fate, the Bermingham’s later met an Uzbek whose sister just graduated from the Textile Institute in Tashkent. Determined to chase down this elusive textile, John Bermingham agreed to hop on a plane and fly to Uzbekistan to meet with the girl who took him to remote ikat making villages in the Fergana Valley and outside of Bukhara. Days of treacherous travel through rugged mountainous terrain, in a country he has never been nor did he know the language, John found the source and started what would become a fruitful relationship. The workshop that produces Bermingham & Co’s ikats has been making the fabrics for many generations. The current owner is a strong willed craftsman who is determined to not only continue his father and grandfather’s craft but also revive the traditional techniques using natural fibers and natural dyes.

The process

Ikat is a method of fabric making where the pattern is created prior to weaving through the process of resist-dye of the yarns. Central Asian ikats are warp dyed which means the warp – the lengthwise yarn – is manipulated to create the pattern. The workshop cultivates their own silk – a technique also originated in East Asia and brought to Central Asia through the Silk Road. Silk processing is tedious but the silk yarns give ikat its highly-valued sheen. Before any weaving takes place, a master weaver decides on a pattern from hundreds he has committed to memory while his helpers bundle the yarns and lay them out on a 2×2 meter frame. He then draws the pattern on the outstretched bundles using a sharpened stick dipped in oil and charcoal, marking where the threads are to be bound. His assistant will wrap the bundles at these specific spots using dye-resistant threads of cotton soaked in wax. The yarn bundles are then transferred to the dye bath in the exact order they are on the frame otherwise the pattern would be broken. In the case of multiple color ikat – after each dye-bath, the bundles are left to dry then re-stretched on the frame for the second round of binding and dyeing. The genius of the master craftsman is in strategizing the steps so that the next dye bath adds onto the previous to either forms a pattern in its own shade or combine with the previously dyed parts to make a new color. With natural dyeing, each color may require a different temperature and condition so this is also something to take into account. From the basis of less than five natural colors, the artisans can create a variety of colors and an unlimited possibility of pattern combination. The points where the yarn bundles are tied to the 2×2 meter frame result in a line repeating every two meters or so in the final woven fabric. This line distinguishes handmade from machine-made ikats and is an inevitable feature of traditional ikat weaving.