4. Write a note on processing and spinning of wool.
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Answer:
WOOL PROCESSING
Spinning
ABOUT WOOL
WOOL PROCESSING
WOOLLEN - SPINNING
There are two types of spinning methods used in woollen spinning, which generally produce a coarser yarn count compared to worsted spinning.
Woollen Spinning
In terms of yarn count (Nm), coarser counts are generally produced on the woollen system in comparison to worsted spinning.
In woollen spinning there are two types of spinning methods used; these include ring spinning which is similar to what’s used to produce worsted yarns, and mule spinning which is unique to the woollen spinning industry.
Generally, blends of coarse micron wool, such as 29 micron Shetland, are ring spun, whilst finer blends (21 micron and finer Lambswool blends) tend to be spun on a mule.
During ring spinning the woollen roving continuously enters the drafting zone on the spinning machine. It is slightly drafted in the region of 20% to 30%, before entering the twisting zone where a predetermined amount of twist is inserted to produce a singles (1xply) yarn.
Mule spinning is somewhat different whereby the yarn is formed by a number of intermittent actions, rather than been formed continually.
Firstly, the rovings are drawn out about 1.5 meters by means of a moveable carriage, and then twisted slightly to increase their strength. Tension is then applied and the rovings are further drawn or drafted by some 20% to 30%. The desired amount of twist is then inserted, before the carriage moves back to its original position whilst winding the singles yarns onto bobbins. The sequence is then repeated until the bobbins of yarn reach their maximum or optimum size.
The yarn is then wound on a winding machine which is fitted with a clearing device, detecting and removing any faults such as thick and thin places, neps and slubs.
Today most winding machines are fitted with a pneumatic splicing device in order to join or splice the ends of broken yarns, rather than tie and produce knots.
Although some yarns are sold and used in singles form, such as 1xply, the majority undergoes a twisting process where two singles yarns are twisted together to produce a two-fold, or 2xply, yarn.
After twisting, the yarn is then re-wound onto suitable packages either for knitting or for weaving. Because woollen yarns contain a lot of oil in contrast to worsted-spun yarns, due to the relatively high amounts of processing lubricants applied to the wool prior to carding, it’s not normally necessary to apply wax.
When producing wool yarns either for machine knitting or weaving of acceptable quality, there are many important parameters to take into consideration. These include:
yarn count (Nm) and yarn count variation
twist levels (turns per metre) and variation; in the case of a two-fold yarn the ratio in percentage terms between the twist levels in the single yarn and the folding twist is very important. This factor is known as the twist balance.
yarn frictional properties
yarn strength and elongation
irregularity (U %)
number of faults: thick and thin places and neps.
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What is Spinning?
Textiles are all around us. We wear them, use them when we sleep, and decorate our homes with them. But have you ever thought about how they are made? One important step is spinning the yarn. Spinning is the process of taking textile fibers and filaments and making them into yarn. For thousands of years, people spun natural fibers into yarn by hand. Today, spinning involves many methods and different machines, depending on what kind of yarn is being made.
Before we discuss how spinning works, let's review some basics. Fibers are short, natural hairs that come from plants like cotton and animals like sheep. Filaments are long continuous single strands. Silk is a natural filament, but most filaments are synthetic or man-made materials, like polyester and nylon. Converting fibers and the substances that form synthetic filaments into yarn involves different methods of spinning.
Basic Process of Spinning Yarn
First, let's look at the basics of spinning, which can be done with very simple tools. To make a natural yarn, you gather cleaned and prepared natural fibers like wool or cotton. Using a tool called a spindle, a rounded stick with tapered ends, you pull the fibers by hand onto it as the spindle twists. To aid the process, the spindle is weighted by something called a whorl, a small, round stone or piece of wood which allows the spinning to be maintained at a regular speed. The process of pulling and twisting results in a piece of yarn.
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