A journey of khadi from mohenjodaro to freedom struggle
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Khadi – the word conjures up images of Mahatma Gandhi and the Swadeshi movement he led. For a long time khadi was associated with the country’s freedom struggle and politics. Here we take a look at its history, exploring the story and significance of this textile.
Khadi is a term used for fabrics that are hand-spun and handwoven, usually from cotton fiber. However, contrary to popular belief, khadi is also manufactured from silk and wool, known as khadi silk or woolen khadi respectively. The fabric is known for its rugged texture, comfortable feel and ability to keep people warm in winter while keeping them cool during the summer.
Hand spinning and hand weaving have been around for thousands of years, thus, making the craft of khadi ancient. The Indus civilization, around 2800 B.C., had a well-developed tradition of textiles. Discovery of terracotta spindle whorls for spinning yarn, bone tools for weaving, terracotta beads with textile impressions and figurines wearing woven fabrics are evidence supporting such claims. The most prominent figurine is of the Mohenjodaro Priest King sculpture shown wearing a cloak over the shoulder with patterns still in use in modern Sindh, Gujarat and Rajasthan.
There have been various other mentions of the beauty and vividness of Indian fabric. Alexander the Great discovered printed and painted cotton during his invasion of India. He and his successors established trade routes which finally introduced cotton to Asia and eventually to Europe. Recovery of Indian fabrics in the old ruins of Cairo supports this theory. Cotton textiles were considered all the rage in Rome and were popular among the wealthy.