Question

A wave of 2m height in deep water approaches shore with 8, = 15°
and has a wave period of 8 sec. Assume depth contours are parallel to
the y direction.

(i) Find the wave height and direction in water of 2 m?

(ii) Find the corresponding wave
shoaling coefficient K, and refraction
coefficient KR? and (iii) Are these waves likely to break at the 2 m water
depth? (Hint: need to solve first the wave number k).​

Answer 1

Explanation:

The speed of a deep-water wave is C=1.25÷L. C has the units of m/sec. The speed depends only on the wavelength, L, in m. The wavelength of a deep water wave varies depending on its period, according to L = 1.56T2, so if you know the period of a wave, it is easy to calculate its wavelength.

Hope you have understood