describe the training in the Everest – 84 team received
Answers
Human Capital is a measure of the skills, education, capacity and attributes of labour which influence their productive capacity and earning potential.
According to the OECD, human capital is defined as:
“the knowledge, skills, competencies and other attributes embodied in individuals or groups of individuals acquired during their life and used to produce goods, services or ideas in market circumstances”.
Individual human capital – the skills and abilities of individual workers
Human capital of the economy – The aggregate human capital of an economy, which will be determined by national educational standard
Explanation:
Acclimatizing
the Biggest Issue You Are Dealing With Is The Lack Of Oxygen On Everest And The Ability For Your Heart And Lungs To Get Oxygen To Your Muscles. You Cannot Do Much To Acclimatize At Low Altitudes Other Than By Putting In The Training Time Before You Arrive At Base Camp Which Will Enable You To Adjust As Well Your Body Allows To The Changing Oxygen Density. The Human Body Simply Does Not Function Well At High Altitudes And Especially Above 8000m (26,300'). As You Go Higher, The Barometric Pressure Decreases, Although The Air Still Contains 21% Oxygen, Every Breath Contains Less Molecules Of Oxygen.
The Common Approach Is To Move Slowly Up The Mountain (1000' A Day Maximum) Spending Your Days At A Higher Altitude Than Where You Sleep Up Until Your Summit Bid. The Human Body Simply Does Not Function Well At High Altitudes And Especially Above 8000m (26,300'). As You Go Higher, The Barometric Pressure decreases, although the air still contains 21% Oxygen, Every Breath Contains Less Molecules Of Oxygen.
Everest Legend Tom Hornbein Explained It To The American Lung Association This Way:
The Lower Oxygen Stimulates Chemoreceptors That Initiate An Increase In Breathing, Resulting In A Lowering Of The Partial Pressure Of Co2 And Hence More Alkaline Blood Ph. The Kidneys Begin To Unload Bicarbonate To Compensate. Though This Adaptation Can Take Many Days, Up To 80% Occurs Just In The First 48 To 72 Hours. There Are Many Other Physiologic Changes Going On, Among Them The Stimulus Of Low Oxygen To Release The Hormone, Erythropoietin To Stimulate More Red Blood Cell Production, A Physiological And Still Acceptable Form Of Blood Doping That Enhances Endurance Performance At Low Altitudes. Adaptive Changes Are Not Always Good For One’s Health. Some South American High Altitude Residents Can Have What’s Called Chronic Mountain Sickness, resulting from too many red blood cells; their blood can be up to 84-85% red blood cells. The increased blood viscosity and sometimes associated pulmonary hypertension can result in right heart failure.
There are companies that claim to help the acclimatization process through specially designed tents that simulate the reduced oxygen levels at higher elevations. They cost about $7,000 or can be rented for about $170 a week. I know some people who have used them for a few months before leaving for Everest and other climbs with success but remember that acclimatization only last a few weeks and your body will naturally adjust to the current altitude very quickly.
If you want to read more about altitude tents, I did a blog post with world-renowned high altitude doctor, Peter Hackett who also runs the excellent site Institute for High Altitude Medicine and Brian Oestrike, CEO of Hypoxico, an industry leader in altitude tents. For another view, Outside Magazine posted an article in 2013 questioning their effectiveness.
Classifying Everest
Being ready for Everest means knowing the route and setting your own expectations. One measure of climbing difficulty is the rating and climbing has a terminology of it's own. You read that she just redpointed a 5.12c and wonder if this was something from NASA, or Congress. I have seen Everest described as a simple "walk-up" meaning that no actual climbing is involved so I thought a quick review of what defines climbing might be helpful. I will use the South Col route as the example but obviously with other routes, you can experience much more difficult terrain.
One point to keep in mind that the base definition of "technical" often means that climbers must use crampons and an ice axe. This implies skills with snow travel, crevasse rescue and self-arrest techniques - all of which are needed for a safe Everest climb from base camp to the summit; and back. There are many ways of grading climbs but I used the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) since many people are familiar with it. However using the Alpine Grade might be more beneficial. I will discuss this at the end.
A final preamble item, one word: altitude. This makes all the difference and more complicated with snow and ice. Walking on Flat Ground At 20,000' is vastly different than walking on flat ground at sea level - obviously. Please keep this in mind as you read these descriptions relative to Everest.