Dress on habits in Assam and Rajasthan over the last 70 years
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Answer:
The Dhoti and Gamosa are said to be the native dress of the men of Assam. The Dhoti is used to cover the lower half of the body and is a well-known piece of clothing in other Indian traditions too. Wearing a Dhoti properly is not so easy and carrying it is also one tricky job. The Gamosa is a rectangular piece of cloth that is an important and significant part of the Assam culture. Gamosa means 'A cloth to wipe one's body' and is a white cloth with a beautiful red border on three sides and woven motifs on the remaining one. It is a piece of clothing that has some great significance in this state hence it is also used to felicitate and honour people who achieve some great feat. The Gamosa can be used as a cloth to wipe or can be transformed into a waistcoat which is commonly known as the Tongali. It can also be used as a Loincloth by a Bihu dancer.
Pagri (Turban)
Pagri is one of the most important parts of men's attire in Rajasthan as it defines their social and economic status. Their colour, cloth, design and shape- everything symbolises individuality. The width of a Pagri is 8 inches and length is about eighty feet. The common man wears a Pagri of a single colour while a rich man wears a designer multicoloured Pagri. Although people wear special Pagris during festivals or events.
Angrakha
The upper garment is called as Angrakha which means protecting the body, Angrakha is made of cotton. On festivals, people wear designer, multicoloured angrakhas. They are designed in two ways; frock style Kamari Angrakha and knee-length Long Angrakha. Printed Angrakhas are more prevalent in the markets of Rajasthan.
Dhoti/Pyjamas
Dhotis or Pyjamas are used to cover the lower portion of the body. Mostly white, dhotis are not comfortable to wear and need some practice. But people in Rajasthan wear cotton dhotis on a regular basis. For special events, they prefer a silk one or the one with Zari border or embroidery.
Traditional Dress of Rajasthan for Women
Ghaghara & Choli
This long skirt has a narrow waist and broad base, reaching just above the ankles covering the lower portion of the body. It is short to provide visibility to the foot ornaments. They come in many prints and colours. There are many pleats and studded ornaments in the Ghaghara itself. Like Pagaris, they are also found in cotton and printed in laharia. Mothra and chunari. The blouses or short kurtis which Rajasthani women wear are known as cholis. Also made with cotton or silk depending on the occasion, the reach to the waist depends on the caste, religion and age of women.
Odhni
Odhni is worn over the blouse, with one end tucked into the skirt and the other end on the head or the shoulders. It is made by a 2.5 to 3 meter long and 1.5 to 2-meter wide cloth, printed in different colours and designs. It varies in different religion and castes. At some places, it is mandatory for women to wear Odhni as a veil, especially in front of the elders as a token of respect.
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