friction of an ocean wave with the ocean floor shows the wave qnd produces
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Bigger waves move faster. That’s why you need a jet ski to catch really big waves.
The amplitude of a wave cannot exceed the water depth.
As waves approach the shore, the water depth decreases.
That’s why waves close to the shore move more slowly - because the waves are smaller by this point.
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When deep-water waves move into shallow water, they change into breaking waves. ... Because of the friction of the deeper part of the wave with particles on the bottom, the top of the wave begins to move faster than the deeper parts of the wave.
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