how can water pressure be increased at the positive level from a solution
Answers
Answered by
2
I hate low water pressure. Low pressure affects everything in the house. The dishwasher and clothes washer take forever to fill. The outside hose squirts an anemic 2 ft., and the shower turns into a small sprinkling device. To increase pressure, first try simple, local solutions at point of use. If those don’t work, more drastic measures are called for.
Factors that reduce water pressure
Ever wonder why you have less pressure in the upstairs shower than in the basement? It’s because it takes more pressure to get the water all the way up there. For every 2.31 ft. of vertical climb in your water line, you lose a pound of water pressure. Thus water that enters the house at the basement level loses 11 lb. to 12 lb. by the time it travels to a second-floor showerhead. If your house water pressure is already at the low end—40 lb. would be low and 80 lb. would be high—this is a significant loss.
Now let’s add in a water softener and an iron filter. These water-conditioning units each decrease water pressure by about 5 lb. of pressure; therefore, we lose another 10 lb. of pressure after water conditioning.
If the water pressure entering the house is sufficient (50 lb. to 80 lb.), you could survive the pressure loss. But in rural areas where incoming water pressure might dip down to 30 lb., there will be a problem. If added to this there are other poor conditions, such as too small or clogged pipes, improper valves, or poor showerheads, the flow may be reduced to a trickle.
In a low-pressure water system, water restricters within fixtures can reduce both pressure and water volume to unacceptable levels.
To determine whether or not the city water supply to the house is responsible for the low-pressure problem, cut a T into the main water line right after the main shutoff valve. Into the center of the T, install a water-pressure gauge. The gauge will give you a reading of any pressure drop in the system right where the water comes into the house. For example, if the gauge shows a dip in water pressure for a few minutes after you flush the toilet, then you’ll know the problem is with the water coming to the house. If the gauge shows no such drop, then the problem must be with the house lines. They may be too small in diameter or fittings, such as globe valves and stop and waste valves, may need to be replaced with full-flow ball valves. Or if you have galvanized pipe, there is a good chance that rust deposits inside the pipes are decreasing the inside diameter of the pipe and restricting the water flow.
Local problems
Sometimes a pressure problem can be solved locally. For example, low pressure at one faucet is often the result of a clogged screen at the tip of the spout. Clean it or replace the aerator. In the shower, the most common problem is a water-saver showerhead. This device conserves water by forcing the flow inside the showerhead through a tiny hole; the restriction kills all the pressure. Though this device has its place in the city, it can make a rural low-pressure problem intolerable. A restricter can be unscrewed from the head or drilled out.
Another common showerhead problem is an obstruction, such as sand and iron particles that get stuck in the head itself, that reduces the flow to a trickle. If you have hard water, which contains lots of minerals, you will have occasional problems with mineral buildup around the holes in the showerhead. Soak the showerhead in vinegar for a couple of hours to dissolve the minerals. Or simply replace the showerhead; some good-quality models sell for less than $10. The best ones sell for around $35 and up.
Factors that reduce water pressure
Ever wonder why you have less pressure in the upstairs shower than in the basement? It’s because it takes more pressure to get the water all the way up there. For every 2.31 ft. of vertical climb in your water line, you lose a pound of water pressure. Thus water that enters the house at the basement level loses 11 lb. to 12 lb. by the time it travels to a second-floor showerhead. If your house water pressure is already at the low end—40 lb. would be low and 80 lb. would be high—this is a significant loss.
Now let’s add in a water softener and an iron filter. These water-conditioning units each decrease water pressure by about 5 lb. of pressure; therefore, we lose another 10 lb. of pressure after water conditioning.
If the water pressure entering the house is sufficient (50 lb. to 80 lb.), you could survive the pressure loss. But in rural areas where incoming water pressure might dip down to 30 lb., there will be a problem. If added to this there are other poor conditions, such as too small or clogged pipes, improper valves, or poor showerheads, the flow may be reduced to a trickle.
In a low-pressure water system, water restricters within fixtures can reduce both pressure and water volume to unacceptable levels.
To determine whether or not the city water supply to the house is responsible for the low-pressure problem, cut a T into the main water line right after the main shutoff valve. Into the center of the T, install a water-pressure gauge. The gauge will give you a reading of any pressure drop in the system right where the water comes into the house. For example, if the gauge shows a dip in water pressure for a few minutes after you flush the toilet, then you’ll know the problem is with the water coming to the house. If the gauge shows no such drop, then the problem must be with the house lines. They may be too small in diameter or fittings, such as globe valves and stop and waste valves, may need to be replaced with full-flow ball valves. Or if you have galvanized pipe, there is a good chance that rust deposits inside the pipes are decreasing the inside diameter of the pipe and restricting the water flow.
Local problems
Sometimes a pressure problem can be solved locally. For example, low pressure at one faucet is often the result of a clogged screen at the tip of the spout. Clean it or replace the aerator. In the shower, the most common problem is a water-saver showerhead. This device conserves water by forcing the flow inside the showerhead through a tiny hole; the restriction kills all the pressure. Though this device has its place in the city, it can make a rural low-pressure problem intolerable. A restricter can be unscrewed from the head or drilled out.
Another common showerhead problem is an obstruction, such as sand and iron particles that get stuck in the head itself, that reduces the flow to a trickle. If you have hard water, which contains lots of minerals, you will have occasional problems with mineral buildup around the holes in the showerhead. Soak the showerhead in vinegar for a couple of hours to dissolve the minerals. Or simply replace the showerhead; some good-quality models sell for less than $10. The best ones sell for around $35 and up.
Similar questions