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Shubham Ladha
The beauty of India textiles spans a truly vast range that goes beyond the more well-known Kanjeevaram and the Banarasi. Come, travel across the country with Lounge
The sheer diversity of Indian textiles, the oldest manufacturing industry in the country, is vast. And while some weaves are fairly well-known, there are some that are only now finding a mention in the mainstream discourse on textiles. Lounge illustrates some exquisite weaves from around the country. The ones featured here were selected with help from textile experts Pavithra Muddaya, designer and founder, Vimor Sarees; Arita Kashyap, founder of the label Doyna; and Rosaline Varsangzuali, associate professor, department of history, Hrangbana College, Mizoram.
Muddaya says: “While many of the weaving techniques and patterns may seem similar, it’s important to remember that they are a result of the weaving conditions and environment in which the weavers work. It’s why there are slight differences in every weave, because of how the weavers made the existing practices their own, depending on their own circumstances."
LEPCHA, SIKKIM
This textile comes from the Lepchas, one of the three predominant tribes in Sikkim. Traditionally, it was woven with nettle yarn but is now spun from cot- ton and wool too. The cotton is used as a base to weave the wool in different geometric motifs in white, red, green and black colours. The textile is tradition- ally woven by women and is used to make women’s coats. Now accessories such as bags are also made from it.
KOORAINADU, TAMIL NADU
Famous for its check patterns, the Koorainadu sari—which originated in a Tamil Nadu village of the same name—is the go-to ensemble for Hindu Tamilian brides. The sari is woven from silk and mercerized cotton yarn. The warp and weft alternate between silk and cotton in a ratio of 2:1, which gives the textile its sheen.
KOTA DORIA, RAJASTHAN
It is so wispy and airy that it is hard to believe that the Kota Doria is woven from both silk and cotton. Its fine check pattern comes in various sizes, with each square known as khat. It’s usually made up of 14 yarns, eight of cotton and six of silk, woven in a translucent way. They can also be printed upon or embellished with zari.
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Dacca in Eastern Bengal, present- day Bangladesh, was the foremost textile centre in the 18th century. It was famous for its mulmut and jamdani weaving.
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