What happens to the vegetation in Srinagar during the late summer?
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For a valley so associated with water, Kashmir’s name surprises you with its meaning: ‘Kashmir’ means ‘desiccated’. Till you realise that according to mythology, Kashyapa Muni had drained a huge lake to bring forth this land. He didn’t drain it entirely, of course, so Srinagar in the heart of the Vale of Kashmir is blessed with a river and several lakes cradled by the Zabarwan hills.
Srinagar, the beautiful city. Shehr-i-Khas, the special city. Even today, after years of insurgency, army occupation and then three seasons of frenetic tourism, Srinagar lives up to these names. It shows off the natural beauty that had generations of Indians, from Mughal emperors to audiences of Kashmir ki Kali sighing. It foregrounds that rather indefinable Central Asian air and resplendent wooden architecture that is a product of the coming together of Islamic art and older Kashmiri influences since the 14th century. To the outsider, already drunk on pherans, yakhnis, shikaras and chinars, it continues to feel, in some ways, like a medieval city by the Jhelum. An ordinary conversation with, say, your houseboat owners’ family, can feel like an exquisite education in hospitality, etiquette, language and culture.
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