Question

What was the importance of hairstyle among the ancient Tamil women during Sangam age?

Answer 1

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The Red Fort in Delhi, once the residence of Mogul Emperor Shah Jahan, now draws crowds of tourists from all over the world. The massive monument, constructed with red sandstone, also houses a number of museums. Given the popularity of the Red Fort, the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) decided to take advantage of the footfall here to showcase something rather unique — coiffure in India through the centuries.

The photo-exhibition, “Kesavinyas” (Sanskrit for arrangement of the hair), has been organised at the Quarters Guard section of Red Fort until the end of January. Thereafter, it will travel to different pats of India.

The rare photographs of sculptures and paintings from the Harappan to the medieval era show men and women sporting different hairstyles.

“Historically, hair is associated with charm and power. Probably nowhere in the world has so much imagination, thought and artistry been applied to hairdressing as in India. Not only the common man or woman, but also the deities are identified with their unique hairstyles. While Shiva and Parvati wore their hair in matted locks or jata, early art shows Buddha’s hair as curly,” said an ASI official, speaking on the condition of anonymity as he was not authorised to speak to the media.

Since sculptures and paintings portray such interesting hairstyles that the global fashion fraternity still takes inspiration from, the ASI gathered 80 sculptures from various museums across the country, including the National Museum, New Delhi; Allahabad Museum, Lucknow Museum, Mathura’s State Museum and Patna’s State Museum. Besides, many were sourced from sites such as Ahichhatra, Ajanta, Amravati, Khajuraho and Vellore, and from a private collector from Tamil Nadu.

“Hairdressing was part of daily life. On special occasions such as social gatherings and functions, both men and women wore elaborate hairstyles. Ancient texts enumerate exuberant hairstyles and elaborate coiffure. The hair was also adorned with a variety of jewels, tiaras and fillets,” the official said.

Similarly, “Natya Shastra”, an ancient Indian treatise on the performing arts, also mentions that women adopted hairstyles according to geographical regions. While young women of Malwa wore curled locks, women from Gauda tied their hair in a top knot, or plaited the hair.

Hairstyles are well-delineated in stone and terracotta sculptures, paintings and coins. Though hairstyling was common among both elite and the peasants, some scholars believe only the elite class arranged their hair in different styles to distinguish themselves from others. The exhibition highlights important hairstyles from different periods.

 

Protohistoric period

Hairstyling was much in vogue during the Harappan civilisation, as is evident from the antiquities unearthed at various Harappan sites, including Mohenjo-daro, Harappa, Kalibangan, Dholavira, Rakhigarhi and Banawali. The Harappans used combs, a variety of which was unearthed from Kalibangan and Mohenjo-daro. An oval-shaped tanged copper mirror was reportedly excavated from Kalibangan and Rakhigarhi.

Women in the olden times took as much care of their hair as they do now. Some terracotta items show women arranged their hair in a curl or knotted at the back, or it was decorated with flowers or flower-shaped ornaments. Men are shown with their hair combed back. It was either cut short or coiled in a knot at the back with a fillet for support. Sometimes, a part was knotted and another part hung freely. In some cases, one part was knotted and another curled. Another form was to gather the hair up in a bun or coil it in a ring form on top of the head.
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