Question

Why do ocean waves increase in height when they reach shore? 1.waves are forced into inlets 2. Water particals are speed up. 3. Water density increases 4. They interact with ocean floor

Answer 1

As a wave moves into shallow water, its orbitals “feel the bottom,” causing it to slow down. The wave crests that are closer to theshore (“in front”) are in shallower water, so they are moving slower than the wave crests farther out in the ocean (“behind”). ... This is why waves grow larger at a beach.