why does a wave collapse when it reaches the shore?
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Nevertheless, ocean floor topography will critically decide how wave energy will transform into whitewater. As waves reach the shore, the energy in front of the wave slows down due to friction with the shallow bottom.
Meanwhile, the energy behind the wave moves at full speed and is channeled upwards, climbing the back of the bulging wave. The wave breaks, and it usually does so in water depth that is 1.3 times the wave height.
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