How do waves change as they approach the shore?
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As a wave moves into shallow water, its orbitals causing it to slow down. The wave crests that are closer to the shore are in shallower water, so they are moving slower than the wave crests farther out in the ocean .This is why waves grow larger at a beach
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Waves generated in sea are higher as in sea they do not have any obstacle but as they reach to the shore they meat with sand on the shore also dept near shore is less which act's as an obstacle due to which their velocity and and occultation become less.
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