What changes could be observed in Indian clothing by the middle of the 20th century and why?
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caste, gender and class were determining factors that decided the clothing styles of Indians during 19th and 20th century. The impact of western culture depended on the level of its interaction with the Indians. There were various reactions to the transformations that were taking place in that century.
Class:
The upper class of the Indian society, especially the Parsis, which formed the wealthy class men, began incorporating some elements of western-style clothing in their dress. They adapted Western-style clothing. Baggy trousers and the phenta (or hat) were added to long collarless coats, with boots and a walking stick to complete the look of the gentleman. To some, Western clothes were a sign of modernity and progress.
To another segment of society, western culture would lead to a loss of traditional cultural identity. The use of Western- style clothes was taken as a sign of the world turning upside down. They mocked who wore western clothes.
Yet another class of society, resolved this dilemma by wearing Western clothes without giving up their Indian ones. Many Bengali bureaucrats in the late nineteenth century began stocking western-style clothes for work outside the home and changed into more comfortable Indian clothes at home.
Caste:
The women of the Shanar caste were attacked by upper- caste Nairs in public places in the southern princely state of Travancore, for wearing a cloth across their upper bodies. As they were considered a ‘subordinate caste’, they were prohibited from using umbrellas and wearing shoes or golden ornaments. Men and women were also expected to follow the local custom of never covering their upper bodies before the upper castes.
Religion:
Rabindranath Tagore suggested that instead of combining Indian and European dress, India’s national dress should combine elements of Hindu and Muslim dress. Thus the chapkan (a long buttoned coat) was considered the most suitable dress for men.
Regionalism:
Jnanadanandini Devi, wife of Satyendranath Tagore, the first Indian member of the ICS, adopted the Parsi style of wearing the sari pinned to the left shoulder with a brooch, and worn with a blouse and shoes. This was adopted by Brahmo Samaji women and came to be known as the Brahmika sari. This style gained acceptance before long among Maharashtrian and Uttar Pradesh Brahmos, as well as non-Brahmos. Women of Gujarat, Kodagu, Kerala and Assam continued to wear different types of sari.
Politics:
Mahatma Gandhi's gospel of Swaraj meant twin objective of self reliance and boycott of foreign goods. He tried to make Khadi , a cottage industry and present in every household. But not all could afford khadi.
Therefore, It would not be feasible to simply pin point a particular type of dress as "Indian style" because it differed in many respects.
Class:
The upper class of the Indian society, especially the Parsis, which formed the wealthy class men, began incorporating some elements of western-style clothing in their dress. They adapted Western-style clothing. Baggy trousers and the phenta (or hat) were added to long collarless coats, with boots and a walking stick to complete the look of the gentleman. To some, Western clothes were a sign of modernity and progress.
To another segment of society, western culture would lead to a loss of traditional cultural identity. The use of Western- style clothes was taken as a sign of the world turning upside down. They mocked who wore western clothes.
Yet another class of society, resolved this dilemma by wearing Western clothes without giving up their Indian ones. Many Bengali bureaucrats in the late nineteenth century began stocking western-style clothes for work outside the home and changed into more comfortable Indian clothes at home.
Caste:
The women of the Shanar caste were attacked by upper- caste Nairs in public places in the southern princely state of Travancore, for wearing a cloth across their upper bodies. As they were considered a ‘subordinate caste’, they were prohibited from using umbrellas and wearing shoes or golden ornaments. Men and women were also expected to follow the local custom of never covering their upper bodies before the upper castes.
Religion:
Rabindranath Tagore suggested that instead of combining Indian and European dress, India’s national dress should combine elements of Hindu and Muslim dress. Thus the chapkan (a long buttoned coat) was considered the most suitable dress for men.
Regionalism:
Jnanadanandini Devi, wife of Satyendranath Tagore, the first Indian member of the ICS, adopted the Parsi style of wearing the sari pinned to the left shoulder with a brooch, and worn with a blouse and shoes. This was adopted by Brahmo Samaji women and came to be known as the Brahmika sari. This style gained acceptance before long among Maharashtrian and Uttar Pradesh Brahmos, as well as non-Brahmos. Women of Gujarat, Kodagu, Kerala and Assam continued to wear different types of sari.
Politics:
Mahatma Gandhi's gospel of Swaraj meant twin objective of self reliance and boycott of foreign goods. He tried to make Khadi , a cottage industry and present in every household. But not all could afford khadi.
Therefore, It would not be feasible to simply pin point a particular type of dress as "Indian style" because it differed in many respects.
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