explain the reason for generation of the Waves
Answers
Wind blowing across the surface of the ocean transfers energy into the water. Initially, light winds generate small Ripples called capillary waves on the water surface.
If the wind increases, the added roughness created by the capillary waves increases the rate of energy transfer and waves begin to form on the ocean surface.
In the the region where wind is blowing across the ocean surface and waves are being generated, the sea surface is characterized by steep waves with many different lengths moving randomly in the direction of the wind. This condition is referred
to as sea. How large the waves get is dependent on 3 factors:
• The strength of the
wind.
• The amount of time the
wind blows.
• The distance (called fetch) over
which the wind blows in a straight line across the ocean.