What does the waves of the seas refer
Answers
Answer:
The Bureau of Meteorology provides forecasts of wave (sea and swell) heights in metres.
Wave heights describe the average height of the highest third of the waves (defined as the significant wave height – see diagram below). It is measured by the height difference between the wave crest and the preceding wave trough.
The Bureau of Meteorology does not forecast maximum wave heights in routine forecasts. Statistically it is estimated that about one in every 2000 to 3000 waves (three to four times a day) will be approximately twice the height of the total wave height.
Wave, sea and swell terms
King or rogue waves are waves greater than twice the total wave height. These very large waves occur when ocean currents run opposite to the prevailing sea and swell, and waves overrun each other. This generates steep and dangerous seas. Mariners should prepare for a rogue wave encounter.
Sea state refers to the combination of sea and swell waves. Sea state descriptions are provided in the tables below.
Sea waves are generated by the local prevailing wind. Their height depends on the length of time the wind has been blowing, the fetch (the distance the wind has blown over the water), and the water depth. They may also be referred as seas in marine text forecasts and wind waves in map displays.